A description of the eastern coast of the county of Barnstable

A Description of Cape Cod,6cc,

I

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DESCRIPTION

■ OF THE

PASTERN COAST

OF THE

COUNTY OF BARNSTABLE,

FROM

CAFE COD, OR RACE POINT,

IN LATITUDE 42^ 5'.

to CAPE MALEBARRE,

O'S, THE

SANDY POINT OF CHATHAM,

IN LATITUDE 41'' 33'.
POINTING OUT THE SPOTS, ON WHICH THE

TRUSTEES OF THE HUMANE SOCIETT

HAVE ERECTED HUTS, AND OTHER PLACES

WHERE SHIPWRECKED SEAMEN MATf

LOOK FOR SHELTER,

October, i8o2, ( '

i

]By a Member of the Humane Societ^^
O"^ *<

BOSTON ;

printed by ROSEA SPRAGUE, No. 44 Marlboro' Street.

1802.

r 1 V

At a Meeting of the Trustees of the Humane Society,

October 4, 1802.
y^ Gentleman who was requested by the Trustees to
contract for a number of Huts , to be erected upon the most
exposed places upon Cape Cod, for the preservation of
shipwrecked Seamen, made the following Report, which
%uas read and accepted. Whereupon, after voting the
thanks of the Trustees for the following accurate and
judicious Report,

It was Voted — That the Treasurer be requested to
have two thousand Copies of said Report printed, and
cause the same to be dispersed among the several Ctfs-
iom-houses and Insurance Offices in this Commonwealth,

^ true Extract from the Minutes.

1 Attefl. JOHN AVERY, Secretary.

A Description of Cape Cod, &g.

JL he curvature of the shore, on the west side
of Provlncetown, and south of Race Point, is called Herring
Cove ; which is three miles in length. There is good anchor-
ing ground here ; and vessels may ride safely in four or five
fathoms of water, when the wind is from north east to south-
east.

On Pvace Point stand about a dozen fishing huts, containing
fire places and other conveniences. The distance from thefc
huts to Provincetown, which lies on Cape Cod harbour, is
three miles. The passage is over a sandy beach, without grass
or any other vegetable growing on it, to the woods, through
which is a winding road to the town. It would be difficult,
if not Impossible, for a stranger to find his way thither in the
dark ; and the woods are so full of ponds and entangling
swamps, tliat if the road was missed, destrudlon would proba-
bly be the consequence of attempting to penetrate them in the
jaight.

Not far from Race Point commences a ridge, which extends
to the head of Stout's Creek. With the face to the east, on
the left hand of the ridge is the sandy shore ; on the right is a
narrow sandy valley ; beyond which is naked sand, reaching to
the hills and woods of Provincetown. Tins ridge is well cov-
ered with beach grass ; and appears to owe its exiftence to that
Vegetable. Beach grass, during tlie spring and summer,
grows about two feet and a half. If surrounded by naked
beach, the storms of autumn and winter heap up the sand on
all sides, and cause it to rise nearly to the top of the plant. la

tlie ensuing spring the grass sprouts anew ; Is again covered
with sand in the winter ; and thus a hill or ridge continues to
ascend, as long as there is a sufficient base to support it, or
till the circumscribing sand, being also covered wiih beach
grass, will no longer yield to the force of the winds.

On this ridge, half way between Race Point and the head
of Stout's Creek, the Trustees of the Humane Society have
erected a hut. It stands a mile from Peaked Hill, a land-mark
well known to seamen ; and is about two miles and a half
from Race Point. Seamen, cast away on this part of the coast,
Vi'ill find a shelter here ; and in north-east storms, should they
strike to tlic leeward of it, and be unable to turn their faces to
the windward, by passing on to Race Point, they will soon
come to the fishing huts before mentioned.

At the head of Stout's Creek the Trustees have built a sec-
ond hut. Stout's Creek is a small branch of East Harbour in
Truro. Many years ago tliere was a body of salt marsh on it ;
and it then deserved the name of a creek. But the marsh
■was long since destroyed ; and the creek new scarcely exists,
appearing only like a small depression in the sand, and being
entirely dry at half tide. The creek runs from north-west to
south-east, and is nearly parallel with the shore on the ocean,
from wliich it is at no great distance. Not far from it the
hills of Provincetown terminate ; and should not the hut be
found, by walking round the head of the creek, with the face
to the west, the hills on the right hand, and keeping close to
the shore on the harbour, in less than an hour the shipwrecked
seamen would come to Provincetown.

The Humane Society, several years ago, erected a hut at
the head of Stout's Creek. But it was built in an improper
manner, having a chimney In it ; and was placed on a spot
where no beach grass grew. The strong winds blew the sand
from its foundation, and the weight of the chimney brought it
to the ground ; so that in January of the present year it was
entirely dcmollsiied. This event took place about six weeks
luforc the Brutus was cast away. If it had remained, it is
probable that the whole cf the unfortunate crew of that ship

7

^ould have been saved, as they gained the shore a few rocfi
only from the spot where the hut had stood.

The hut now erefted stands on a place covered with beach
grass. To prevent any accident from happening to it, or to
the other hut near Peaked Hill, the Trustees have secured the
attention of several gentlemen in the neighbourhood. Dr.
Thaddeus Brown and Capt. Thomas Sm alley of Provincetown
have engaged to inspect both huts, to see that they are suppli-
ed with straw or hay in the autumn, that the doors and win-
dows are kept shut, and that repairs are made, when necessary.
The Rev. Mr. Damon of Truro has also promised to visit the
hut at Stout's Creek twice or thrice in a year ; and the Rev.
Mr. Whitman of Wcllfleet, distinguished through the county
for his adivity and benevolence, has undertaken, though re-
mote from the place, the same charge.

From the head of Stout's Creek to the termination of the
salt marsh, which lies on both sides and at the head of East
Harbour river, the distance is about three miles and a half.
A narrow beach separates this river from the ocean. It is not
so regular a ridge as that before described, as there are on it
one or two hills, which the neighbouring inhabitants call isl-
ands. It may without much difficulty be crossed every where,
except over these elevations. By these hills, even during the
night, the beach may be distinguiflied from those hereafter to
be mentioned. It lies from north-west to south-east ; iind is
in most parts covered with beach grass. The hills have a few
shrubs on the declivities next the river. At the end of the
marsh the beach subsides a little ; and there is an easy passage
into a valley, in which are situated two or three dwelling hous-
es. The first on the left hand, or south, is a few rods only
from the ocean.

The shore, which extends from this valley to Race Point, is un-
questionably the part cfthe coast the most exposed to shipwrecks.
A north east storm, the most violent, and fatal to seamen, as it
is frequently accompanied with snow, blows dirctflly on tlieland:
a strong current sets along the shore: add to which ll)at ships,
during the operationof sucha storm, endcvavour to work to the

8

northwarJ, that they may get into the bay. Should they be
unable to weather Race Point, the wind drives them on the
ijiore, aad a shipwreck is inevitable. Accordingly, the strand
is every whet e covered with the fragments of vessels. Huts
therefore, placed within a mile of each other, have been thought
necessary by many judicious persons. To this opinion the
Trustees are disposed to pay due rcspcfl ; and hereafter, if the
funds of the Society increase, new huts will be built here for
the relief of the unfortunate.

From the valley above mentioned the land risec, and less than
a mile from it the High Land commences. On the first elevat-
ed spot, the ClayPounds, stands the Light House. The shore here
turns to the south ; and the High Land extends to the Table
Land of Eastham. This High Land approaches the ocean
widi steep and lofty banks, which it is extremely difficult to
climb, especially in a storm. In violent tempests, during very
high tides, the sea breaks against the foot of them, rendering
it then unsafe to walk on the strand, which lies between them
and the ocean. Should the seaman succeed in his attempt to
ascend them, he must forbear to penetrate into the country, ais
houses are generally so remote, that they would escape his re-
search during the night : he must pass on to the vallies, by
which the banks are intersedled. These vallies, which the in-
habitants call Hollows, run at right angles with the shore ; and
in the middle, or lowest part of them, a road leads from tha
dwelling houses to the sea.

The first of these vallies is Dyer's Hollow, a mile and a half
south of the Light House. It is a wide opening, being two hun-
dred rods broad from summit to summit. In it stands a
dwelling house, a quarter of a mile from the beach.

A rriile and a half south of Dyer's Hollow, is a second val-
ley, called Harding's Hollow. At the entrance of this valley,
the sand has gathered ; so that at present a little climbing is
necessary. Passing over several fences, and taking heed not
to enter the wood on the right hand, at the distance of three
quarters of a mile, a house is to be found. This house stands

9

dft th-Q south side of the toad ; and not far from It, on the south,
is Pimet river, which runs from east to west through a body
of salt marsh.

The third valley, a half of a mile south of Harding's Hol-
low, is head of Pamet Hollow. It may with ease be distin*
guished from the other hollows mjntioned, as It Is a wide open-
Ing, and leads Immediately over a beach to the salt marsh at
the head of Pamet river. In the midst of the hollow the sand
has been raised by a brush fence, carried across It from north
to south. This must be passed ; and the shipwrecked marin-
er will soon come to a fence, which separates what Is called
the road from the marsh. If he turns to the left hand, or
south, at the distance of a quarter of a mile, he will discover
a house. If he turns to the right hand, at the distance of half
a mile, he will find the same house, which Is mentioned In tha
foregoing paragraph.

The fourth opening, three quarters of a mile south of Head
of Pamet, is Brush Valley. This hollow Is narrow, an J climb-
ing is necessary. Entering It, and inclining to the right, tlirec
quarters of a mile will bring seamen to the house, which is sit-
uated at the Head of Pamet. By proceeding straight forward,
and passing over rising ground, another house may be discov-
ered, but with more difficulty.

These three hollows, lying near together, serve to designate
«ach other. Either of them may be used ; but Head of Pam-
et Hollow is the safest.

South of Brush Valley, at the distance of three miles, there
Is a fifth opening, called New comb's Hollow, east of the head
of Herring river in Wellfieet. This valley is a quarter of a
mile wide. On the north side of It, near the shore, stands a
fishing hut.

Between the two last vallles the bank is very high and steep.
From the edge of it, west, there is a strip of sand, a hundred
yards in breadth. Then succeeds low brushwood, a quarter
of a mile v/ide, and almost Inpassible. After which comes
a thick, perplexing forest, In which not a hoyse is to bs dis^CT-

ere J. Seamen therefore, though the distance between tliese tw#
vallics is great, mud not attempt to enter the wood, as in a
snow storm they would undoubtedly peribh. This place, sd
formidable in description, will however lose somewhat of its
terrour, when it is observed, that no instance of a shipwreck
on this part of the coast is recoUedcd by the oldest inhabitants
cf W^'llfleet,

Half of a mile south of Newcomb's Hollow, is the fixth val-
ley, called Pearce's Hollow. It is a small valley. A house
stands at tho distance of a little more than a quarter of a mile
from the beach, west by south.

The seventh valley is Cohoon's Hollow, a half of a mile
soutli of Pearce's Hollow. It is not very wide. West from
the entrance, several houses may be found at the distance of a
of a mile. This.hollow lies east by north from Wcllfleet meet-
ing house.

Two miles south of Cohooi's Hollow, the eighth valley is
iinow's Hollow. It is smaller thvm the last. West from the
shore, at the distance of a quaHer of a mile, is the county road,
which goes round the head of Blackfish creek. Passing through
this valley to the fence, which separates the road from the up-
land and marsh at the head of the creek, a house will immedi-
ately be found by turning to the right hand, or north. There
are houses also on the left, but more remote.

The High Land gradually subsides here, and a mile and a
half south terminates at the ninth valley, called Fresh Brook
Hollow, in which a house is to be found a mile from the shore,
ivest.

The tenth, two miles and a half south from Fresh Brook
Hollow, is Plum Valley, about three Imndred yards wide.
West is a house, three quarters of a mile distant.

B.ctween these two vallies is the Table Land.

After- this there is no hollow of imporuncc to Cape Male-
barre.

From Fresh Brook Hollow to the commencement of Nau-
^%\. beach, the bant iiej^t the occuii is about j,i.\ty feet hi^L

Tt

T*here nre houses scattered over the plain, open countr;' : but
none of them are nearer than a mile to tlie shore. In a storm
of wind and rain they migh.t be discerned by day light ; but
in a snow storm, which rages here with excessive fury, it would
be almost impossible to discover them cither by night or by
day.

Not far from tliis shore, south, the Trustees have erc£ied a
third hut, on Nauset beach. Nauset beach begins in latitude
41° 51'. and extends south to latitude 41"^ 41'. It is divided
Into two parts by a breach, which the ocean has made through
it. This breach is the mouth of Nauset or Stage harbour ;
and from the opening the beach extends north tAvo miles and
a quarter, till it joins the main land. It is about a furlong wide
aTid forms Nauset harbour ; which is of little value, its entrance
being obstructed by a bar. This northern part of the beach
may be disiinguished from the southern part by its being of a
less regular form : Storms have made frequent irruptions
through the ridge, on which beach grass grows. On an ele-
vated part of the beach, stands the hut, about a mile and a half
north of the mouth of Nauset harbour. Eastham meetina:
house lies from it vi'cst south west, distant a mile and three
quarters. The meeting house is withouc a steeple j but it may
be distinguished from the dwelling houses near it by its situa-
tion, which is betv/een two small groves of locusts, one en the
50Uth and one on the north, that on the south being three times
as long as the other. About a mile and a quarter from the hut,
west by north, appear the top and arms of a windmill. The
Rev. Mr. Shaw and Elislia Mayo, Esq. of Eastham have enga-
ged to inspect this building.

• The southern part of Nauset beach, most commonly called
Chatham beach, and by a few persons Potanumaquut beacli,
begins at the mouth of Nauset harbour, and extends eiglit or
nine miles south to the moutli of Chatham harbour. It is a-
bout fifty rods wide. A regular, well formed ridge, which in
the most elevated part of it is forty feet high, runs the whole
length of it j. and, with the cKccptlon of afjwrpots, is covered

12
^ith beach grass. TlJs beach forms the barrier of Chatham
harbour, which from Strong island north receives the name of
Pleasant bay. A mile south of the entrance of Nausct har-
bour, it joins the main land of Orleans, except in very high
tides, when the sea flows from the north eastern arm of Pleas-
ant bay into the harbour of Nausct, completely insulating the
beach. By those, who are acquainted with the shallow, it may
be safely forded at any time ; but strangers must not venture
to pass it, when covered with water, as below, the channel is
seven feet deep. On this beach, about half way between the
entrances of Nauset and Chatham harbours, the Trustees have
erefted a fourth hut. The spot seleded Is a narrow part of the
beach. On the west, the water adjoining it is called Bass Hole.
Salt marsh is north and south of it next the beach, but is here
interrupted. Oilcans meeting house lies from it north v/cst.
The meeting house is without a steeple, and is not seen ; but it
is very near a windmill placed on an elevated ground, a con-
spicuous objcd to seamen coming on the coast. It may be
neceflary to add that there are three windmills in Orleans form-
ing a semicircle, that the mill referred to is on the right hand,
or north east point, and that the mill in the middle point of the
semicircle stands on still higher ground. The meeting house
of Chatham is fituated from it south west. This meetir.g house
is also without a steeple, and is concealed by Great Hill, a no.
ted land mark. The hill appears with two summits, which
are a quarter of a mile apart. The hut lies east from Samp-
son's ifland in Pleasant bay. Timothy Bascom, Esq. of
Orleans has undertaken to inspe(ft this hut.

Lest seamen should niiss this hut, by striking to the leeward
of it, the Trustees have erefled another on the same beach. It
stands a mile north of the mouth of Chatham harbour, east of
the meeting house, and opposite tlie town.

Another spot on the same beach would be a proper situation
for a hut. It is noiih of the fourth hut, and cait of the middle
pf Pochct ifland. The highest part of the ridge is near it, soutli.

J5

A l>real: In the rldgc, over which the sea appears sometimes t»
have flowed, divides this high part from the northern portion of
the beach. ,

On the beach of Cape Malebarrc, or the Sandy Point of Cliat-
ham, the Trustees have built a fixth hnt. This beach stretches
from Chatham, ten miles into the sea, toward Nantucket ; and
is from a fjuarter to three quarters of a mile in breadth. It is
continually gaining south : above three miles have been added
to it during the past fifty years. On the east side of the beach
is a curve In the shore, called Stewart's Bend, where vessels may-
anchor with safety, in three or four fathoms of water, when the
wind blows from north to south-west. North of the Bend
there are sever.il bars and shoals. A little below the middle cf
the beach, on the west side, is Wreck Cove, which is navigable
for boats only. The hut stands tv;o hundred yards from the
ocean, south east from the entrance ofWi-eck Cove, a half of
a mile. Between tlie mouth of the Cove and hut, is Stewart's
Knoll, an elevated part of the beach. The distance of the hnt
from the commencement of the beach is fix miles, and from its
termination four. Great Hill in Chatham bears north by west,
distant six miles ; and the south end of Morris's island, which
is on the west side of the beach, north by east, distant four miles.
Richard Sears, Esq. of Chatham has engaged to vifit the two
last mentioned huts.

Two miles below the sixth hut is a fishing house, built of
thatch, in the form of a wigwam. It stands on the west side
of the beach, a quarter of a mile from the ocean. Annually
in September it is renewed ; and generally remains in tolerable
preservation during the winter.

Another spot, a few rods from the sea, four miles sonth frcaa
the commencement of the beach, and a half of a mile north cf
the head of Wreck Cove, would be a proper situation for a
hut. A little south of this spot, in storms and very high tidc%
the sea breaks over from the ocean into Wreck Cove.

Cape Malebarre beach may be dittinguifiied from tlie two
beaches before dercribcd^ net only by its greater breadth, but

H

also by its beTr.fl; of a les; regular form. It Is not so well ccvt
crcd with grass as Chatham beach. From Stewart's Knoll,
south, to the extremity, it is lowest in the middle. In this
ralley, and in other low places, fresh water may be obtained
by (Jigging two feet into the sand. The same thing is true of
JJauset and Chatliam beaches.

The six huts, the situation of which has thus been pointed
out, are all of one size and shape. Each hut stands on piles,
is eight feet long, eight feet wide, and seven feet high ; a slid-
ing door is on the south, a sliding shutter on the west, and a
pole, rising fifteen feet above the top of the building, on the
cast. Within, It is supplied cither with straw or hay ; and 15
farther accommodated ^ith a bench.

The whole of the coaft, from Cape Cod to Cape Malebarre,
is sandy, and free from rocks. Along the shore, at the dis-
tance of a half of a mile, is a bar ; which is called the OuUr
bar, because there are smaller bars within It, perpetually vary-
ing. This outer bar is separated into many parts by guzzles,
or small channels. It extends to Cliatham ; and as it proceeds
southward, gradually approaches the shore and grows more
shallow. Its general depth at high water Is two fathoms, and
three fathoms over the guzzles ; and its Icnst distance from
the shore is about a furlong. Off the mouth of Chatham har-
bour there are bars which reach three quarters of a mile ; and
off the entrance of Nauset harbour the bars extend a half of a
mile. Large, heavy ships strike on the outer bar, even at high
Tvatcr ; and their fragments only reach the shore. Bu^ small-
er vessels pass over It at full sea ; and when they touch at low
water, they beat over it, as the tide rises, and soon come to the
land. If a vessel Is cast away at low water, it ought to be left
with as much expedition as possible ; because the fury of the
waves Is then checked, In some measure, by the bar ; and be-
cause the vcffel is generally broken to pieces with the rising
flood. But seamen, shipwrecked at full sea, ought to remain
on board till near low water ; fcr the vessel docs not then

break to pieces ; and by attempting to reach the land befofi
the tide ebbs away, they arc in great danger of being drowned.
On this subjcifl there is one opinion only among judicious mar-
iners. It may be neceflary however to remind them of a truth,
of which they have full conviiStion, but which, amidst the a^^i-
tation and terrour of a storm, they too frequently forget.

riNis,

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